Medieval Castle Tour: Parma and Piacenza's Historic Fortresses

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Pier Maria Rossi II was a busy man. Between his 27 castles (many can still be seen on the castle route of Parma), two wives, 12 children, and countless battles and political intrigues, he still had time for art, culture, and romance. In 1482, at 67 years old, he had seen it all, having lost his last battle and retreating to his beloved Torrechiara Castle about 20 km outside Parma. He died, tired but satisfied, surrounded by art and memories, and was buried next to his life partner Bianca on the castle grounds.

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Castle Route Through the Hills of Parma 

It's always good to know something about history before following a castle route. Although I must admit it's not easy to keep all those feuding families apart and remember their names. Sure, we may know Visconti, Medici, Sforza, Este, Orsini, Farnese by name, but should we mention them all in one sentence without waking them from their eternal sleep?

The story reads like a fairy tale, at least if we will believe the legends. At 15, in 1428, our hero Pier Maria Rossi married Antonia Torelli, who was 8 years older, and although not a marriage of love, which was rare in those days, from the age of 18 he fathered a child with Antonia nearly every year. He maintained a good relationship with her while simultaneously fighting 5 battles against Venice on behalf of Filippo Visconti, Duke of Milan, and carrying on a passionate extramarital affair. 

A Chivalrous Love That Lasted a Lifetime

They say, but here the fairy tale takes over, that around 1440 at the court of Visconti, he met the love of his life, Bianca Pellegrini. It was love at first sight, and the fact that both were already married was no obstacle at that time.

After Visconti's death, he was succeeded by Francesco Sforza as Duke of Milan, and the fighting between Venice and Milan, as well as Parma, continued as before. I won't bore you with the details, as other adventures demand attention. Pier Maria II became a real estate mogul, not only was he already wealthy, partly inherited as the only son of his father, but he invested much of his money in castles and rocche (fortresses), several of which are still to be seen in good condition along this castle route.

Romance Along the Castle Route Between Parma and Piacenza

Pier Maria constructed Roccabianca near the modern village of Fossa as a tribute to his new love. The castle Arzenaldo, as it was known until that time, was transferred to his father Pier Maria I in 1413, the same year Pier Maria II was born. Previously, it had belonged to the Pallavicino family, who had received it as a gift from Emperor Barbarossa. The relationship between Antonio Pallavicino and Pier Maria I was already strained, and this transfer exacerbated their tensions. Within three years in 1416, Arzenaldo had been completely demolished, but ownership had returned to the Pallavicino family.

In 1449, Pier Maria II was now 36, heir to his father's properties, father of a series of children, and in a long-term relationship with Bianca. His wife Antonia lived with the children at the Rocca di Rossa castle in San Secondo and could watch from her back window the construction of the new (1460) castle Roccabianca that Pier Maria had intended for Bianca to spend the winter in. To please Antonia, he later painted the castle white to match the name to the color instead of his lover.

The Jewel in the Crown: The Contours of Castello di Torrechiara

One of the most magnificent and well-maintained castles in the vicinity of Parma is Castello di Torrechiara, which he constructed for his cherished Bianca as a summer home. This architectural gem features multiple chambers for hosting distinguished visitors, along with terraces and loggias offering breathtaking panoramas of the surrounding vineyards and the Parma River.

The above photo series of Castello di Torrechiara are by Samuele Bertoli and were published on Unsplash.

The intimate quarters, including the bedchamber, feature exquisite decoration, with reports suggesting that portions of the room's walls were adorned with gold leaf. The artwork reveals Pier Maria's romantic nature. The four-part pictorial narrative portrays Bianca as a pilgrim seeking her beloved, depicted among her lover's various castles and properties, ultimately greeting Pier as a chivalrous knight kneeling before her. Incredibly sentimental romance! Yet these frescoes hold value as authentic 15th century creations.

Throughout Torrechiara, the halls, passageways, and chambers are extensively adorned with frescoes, many remarkably well-preserved. Though uncertainty exists regarding their origins—with numerous paintings suspected to be later additions rather than from Pier Maria Rossi II's era—this does not diminish their splendor.

A YouTube Video with the Frescoes of Torrechiara 

While exploring the castle route across Parma and Piacenza, you'll discover numerous sites that will inspire medieval and early Renaissance fantasies. However, it remains questionable whether these romantic visions truly align with historical reality.

Places to Stay Along the Castle Route

You might be looking for accommodation in the style or at least as romantic as one of the castles you pass. Here are a few suggestions.

Instead of staying in the city of Parma, this small hotel on top of Torrechiara, right next to the 15th-century castle, is a great alternative. The rooms have been recently renovated, with good beds. The rooms are relatively small, but what else can you expect in this medieval context? There is a great tavern right next door, owned by the same proprietor. Langhirano is the city with the highest concentration of Parma ham factories and is only a 10-minute drive away. By the way, I can also recommend the Molino di Torrechiara, slightly less of a view, but the prices are a bit more democratic.

Romantic country house that was completely renovated without sparing cost or effort, wonderful beautiful bathrooms, simply gorgeous rooms, and exceptional service. Good breakfast, fantastic location close to Parma. Definitely recommended for a romantic stay during a castle route, it fits perfectly with the style and it also has a swimming pool!

If you have a romantic wedding in mind and want to sleep in a castle like a princess, look no further. There is only 1 suite in the tower of the castle, so privacy is guaranteed. There is also a nice slow food restaurant connected to the castle. 

The 11 Medieval Castles Along the Castle Route

1. Castello di Bardi

Built on top of a rock, this castle offers a combination of military architecture and Renaissance-style castle. It houses an archaeological museum and artworks by 20th-century artist Vittorio Ferrarini.

2. Torrechiara Castello

The 15th-century castle was built as the winter residence of Bianca Pellegrini and is famous for its beautiful frescoes by Benedetto Bembo in the 'Golden Room,' depicting romantic scenes and tales of chivalrous love, a celebration of the love between Bianca Pellegrini and Pier Maria Rossi. The castle was also used as a location in the film "Ladyhawke" (1985), starring Rutger Hauer and Michelle Pfeiffer.

3. Castell'Arquato

The entire village is a vibrant medieval museum. The Rocca Viscontea offers a beautiful view over the Val d'Arda, and the village is known as a filming location for "Ladyhawke."

4. Rocca San Vitale - Castello Fontanellato

This castle is known for its impressive moat and the room with frescoes by Parmigianino. It also offers a unique 'Prisma Room' where you can spy on activities in the square via a system of lenses and mirrors. You will also find the Masone labyrinth here, dedicated to Umberto Eco. 

5. Castello Vigoleno 

The castle and the surrounding village are excellently preserved, offering an authentic medieval atmosphere. The fortified walls and towers are particularly impressive.

6. Castello Varano de' Melegari

This castle, which still bears the name of the Pallavicino family, represents the defensive architecture of the 11th century and maintains a formidable and impenetrable appearance. It plays a major role in local history and culture.

7. Castello Compiano

The castle is almost a time capsule with its well-preserved medieval structure and interior, which now houses a museum illustrating the history of the region.

8. Castello Rivalta

This castle, which is now operated as a luxury hotel, offers a mix of luxury and history with extensive collections of antique furniture, weapons, and other historical objects. The interior and gardens are carefully maintained.

9. Castello Gropparello

This castle stands on a rocky outcrop and offers spectacular views. It has a park known as the first 'emotion-inspiring' fairy tale park in Italy, where children and adults can experience interactive and imaginative adventures.

10. Castello di Roccabianca

Built around 1460 for Pier Maria Rossi's beloved Bianca Pellegrini. The castle now houses the Distillery Museum of liqueurs, brandies, and balsamic vinegar. Culatelli cheese is aged in the old cellars. Recent restorations have revealed valuable fresco decorations, heraldic coats of arms in the portico for the famous Camera di Griselda inspired by Boccaccio's Decameron.

11. Rocca dei Rossi in San Secondo

The Rocca dei Rossi was built on a hill around 1413 by order of Pier Maria I de' Rossi, father of Pier Maria II, to defend the fortified village of San Secondo, over which the Rossi family had claimed rights since the 12th century. The family castle was inhabited by Antonia, the wife of Pier Maria II, and his 10 children. Some historians speculate that in the fable 'The Fox and the Mask' painted in Aesop's gallery, the mask represents Pope Paul III Farnese, against whom the Rossi family had a strong aversion. The mask symbolizes 'a beautiful head but no brains'. 

Opening hours and admission prices can be found on the websites of the castles.