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Buckle up for a tour through the province of Catania to Etna National Park, Europe's most temperamental volcano and a paradise for adventurous taste buds. Every twist and turn on this road trip through the "Muntagna" (mountains) is a sensory overload – the air is perfumed with citrus zest, and you're never more than a pistachio's throw away from a vineyard.
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You have to go off the beaten track to make these extraordinary discoveries. For those who want to see a little more than the average tourist, we have found five culinary curiosities in this region. In short, this journey is less of a drive and more of an edible odyssey, a cornucopia of culinary quirks and characters, all set against the backdrop of a grumbling, rumbling volcano.
Mushrooms of Pedara
First stop, the fungal fantasia of Pedara, where mushrooms aren't just fungi, they're a local legend. Grown with a secret recipe of pine resin, chestnut sweetness, and a dash of spicy beech, these aren't your average supermarket mushrooms. Every October a festival is dedicated to this "gold of Etna" in the town of Pedara, a village on the green southern hills of the volcano.
Apples from Etna
Don't miss the Etna apples – with names that sound more like a roll call at a quirky fruit convention. These high-altitude apples have more character than a barrel of monkeys and a shelf life that's practically immortal. Have you ever heard of Cardilla, Abbondanza, Aonneddu, Ruggia, Turca, Rotolo, A me donna, Maledeci, Romaneddu or Montagnose apples? As many as 20 varieties of Etna apples are included in the Slow Food Presidium.
Zafferana Etnea and Nicolosi
Craving a classic Sicilian dish? Make a pit stop at Zafferana Etnea, about 10 km south of Viagrande, a foodie's dream tucked away in the mountains. Here, they celebrate the Festival on the 2nd Sunday in August, with a feast that's more like a parade of the area's edible treasures – think grapes, mushrooms, wine, chestnuts and honey.
Zafferana, together with the village of Nicolosi, is considered one of the main tourist departure points for summer and winter expeditions to the summit of Mount Etna.
Milo, the Slow Food Presidium for Donkey Milk
Then there's Milo, not just a village but the Donkey Milk Capital of the World. Here, the Ragusana donkeys aren't just cute; they're liquid gold producers. And if you're feeling adventurous, you can trek through Etna with these donkey celebrities!
Milo is the highest village on the eastern side of Mount Etna and the least populated in the province, with just over 1,000 inhabitants. At the entrance to the village, you are almost immediately on Piazza Belvedere, from where you have a spectacular view of the valley below.
About a kilometer from Milo, in the direction of Macchia di Giarre, there are a number of farms that breed special breeds of donkey that are in danger of extinction. Until a few decades ago, these animals were used daily to work the land in southern Italy; they were ideal for pulling small carts along the usually narrow roads. Thanks to the Slow Food Presidium, this breed of donkey (Ragusana) is now being given a new lease of life, with the added bonus of contributing not only to its survival, but also to our health. In fact, donkey milk is ideal for feeding babies who are allergic to other types of milk. It is also used in all kinds of new personal care products. One of the educational farms you can visit is called "Asilat", which is also part of the Slow Food presidium.
There are beautiful tours to be made with the "Ragusana" donkeys in the Etna National Park. Park. See this website
The extreme vineyards of Sant'Alfio
Sant'Alfio is a village that has always been linked to the vine growing in the Etna area: in the 17th century, a group of peasants settled in the area between Viagrande and Acireale, who deforested a large part of the area and planted vineyards.
Etna's fertile soil is ideal for wine growing, but this does not mean that the same variety of vine has been planted on all sides. Wine is grown on three sides of the mountain. On the southern side, where the vines are least susceptible to extreme weather conditions, wine comes from the production center around Contrada Cavaliere. Around the village of Zafferana Etnea, more than 1,000 meters above sea level, viticulture is truly "extreme", with vines growing higher than one of the largest craters. It is difficult and obviously expensive to grow vines at 700 and 900 meters above sea level, and this is reflected in the rather high price of this wine.
The ´wild´ peaches of Simeto
The flat peach, also known as the wild peach, with its bright white flesh and delicious taste, also grows on the slopes of Mount Etna and thrives here. The peach, which has the curious Italian name "pesca tabbachiera", was given this name because its shape is associated with a small tobacco box. It was only after the Second World War that the cultivation of this variety became more widespread. The area is located between the villages of Adrano, Bronte, Biancavilla and Maniace.
Every year, on October 1st and 2nd, a festival is held in Leonforte, about 100 km east of Etna, in honor of the peach. If you want to buy peaches in Simeto, visit the farm L'Azienda Agricola Pietrarossa.
The pistachios of Bronte
There is not a shop, a bar or a bakery to be found in the city of Bronte that does not offer something prepared with pistachios: as a snack or in a kind of nougat, in pastries or even in the preparation of risotto. Naturally there is a festival. The whole month of September is dedicated to this nut in the village of Bronte, and the culmination of the festivities takes place between the end of September and the beginning of October.
The pistachioa shrub was introduced to Sicily by the Arabs and today it is one of the main economic resources of the region.
If you want to taste and buy pistachios, you can visit this farm on the SP1 near Bronte. Agricultura Fernandez.Where to sleep
Where to sleep (and eat well) around Mount Etna
Monaci delle Terre Nere
Monaci delle Terre Nere, a member of Relais et Chateaux is located in the Etna area and is surrounded by a large park with a variety of exotic and indigenous plants. They call this residence a Relais but it has many of the characteristics of an Agriturismo. It promises a relaxing and peaceful stay. It is particularly suitable for couples who love nature, organic production and slow food. There are rooms, villas and suites available.
Monaci delle Terre Nere - Via Monaci Sn - Zafferana Etnea (Catania) Tel. +39.070.513489 - Rooms & RatesVillagrande Wine Resort
The Villagrande Wine Resort is immersed in a rolling landscape of woods and vineyards in the Etna Park at 700 meters above sea level. It is located to the east of the volcano, in a panoramic position overlooking the coast of Taormina. The Wine Resort is owned by the Barone Company of Villagrande, one of the oldest wine estates in Sicily. It is a 19th century manor house, carefully restored, that now serves as a comfortable and relaxing retreat for wine tourists.
Villagrande Wine Resort, Via Del Bosco, 25 - Milo - Catania (Catania) Tel. +39.070.513489 - Rooms & RatesShalai Resort
An unusual residence with many of the characteristics of a private home, the interior is a blend of antiques, folklore and contemporary design. Dating back to the 19th century, Shalai Resort was once the country residence of a noble family. Today it is one of the island's most charming accommodations, offering 13 cozy rooms in timeless luxury, understated chic with a contemporary twist.
Shalai Resort - - Via Guglielmo Marconi, 25 - Linguaglossa (Catania) - Rooms & RatesResort Donna Carmela
Strategically located between Mount Etna and the Ionian Sea, the house, officially known as Donna Carmela, is in Carruba, near Riposto, an ideal base for many excursions. Donna Carmela has the structure of an agriturismo, but is luxurious and comfortable and has access to one of the best restaurants in the area, which is full almost every night. The estate is at the same time a lush nursery of 550 hectares, full of Mediterranean and subtropical plants. In addition, it is a very prestigious winery, and as such, the wine list is outstanding.
Resort Donna Carmela - Contrada Grotte, 7 - Carruba - Riposto (Catania) Tel. +39.070.513489 - Rooms & RatesZash Boutique Hotel
At the foot of Mount Etna and a few kilometers from the beaches, Boutique Hotel Zash is the ideal choice for those who love contemporary young design and a cozy atmosphere with attention to detail. Suitable for all ages, the attentive service is outstanding, enjoy in total relaxation. The cuisine at this hotel is also very well known in the area, it is definitely a good address for gourmets.
Zash Boutique Hotel - Archi - Riposto (Catania) - Room & RatesTenuta Madonnina
The beautiful Sicilian winery Tenuta Madonnina has been transformed into a small resort with luxury vacation homes. Situated on the northern slopes of Mount Etna and overlooking the beautiful village of Castiglione di Sicilia, there are 8 lifestyle homes for 2 to 8 people.
Tenuta Madonnina - Contrada Cavalleria 16, 95012 Castiglione di Sicilia, CT, Italy - Rooms & RatesMore options for overnight stays
How to get there
To get to Etna National Park from Catania-Fontanarossa Airport (the closest major airport), you have several options:
Car Rental: Renting a car at the airport is a convenient way to reach Etna National Park. The drive typically takes about an hour, depending on traffic and the exact destination within the park. The route is straightforward – you would generally take the A18 motorway towards Catania and then follow the signs to Etna.
Taxi or Private Transfer: You can take a taxi or arrange a private transfer from the airport. This option is more expensive but offers the convenience of direct travel to your destination within the park.
Public Transportation: While more time-consuming and less direct, public transport is an economical option. You can take a bus from the airport to Catania city center and then switch to another bus that goes to towns close to Etna National Park, such as Nicolosi or Zafferana Etnea. From there, you might need to arrange a taxi or join a guided tour to enter the park.
Guided Tours: Many companies offer guided tours to Etna National Park, which often include pickup and drop-off at Catania airport or your hotel. This can be a convenient way to visit, especially if you're interested in guided hikes, wine tastings, or learning about the volcanic landscape from an expert.
Remember to check the schedules and availability of public transport or tours in advance, especially if you're traveling during off-peak seasons.
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