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On a warm day heading north or south, you could veer off the A1 motorway, (Autostrada del Sole) for a refreshing swim in the lake Bilancino. Over 150 years ago, major Tuscan cities like Florence and Prato faced a critical challenge: they desperately needed to expand their water supply. The drinking water situation in these two largest Tuscan cities had become dire, yet a proper solution wouldn't arrive until 1999.
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I remember when renting a villa in Tuscany during the 1980s and '90s we knew the struggle well. Try to take a shower around 5 PM, and you'd be met with barely a trickle of water to wash away the day's heat.
After years of political maneuvering and bureaucratic delays, officials finally approved the construction of a reservoir in 1978. Though building began in 1984, it wasn't until 1999 that water filled what would become Lake Bilancino. Yet this didn't end the political squabbling – debates over the lake's use continue to this day, leaving this beautiful resource largely untapped. To find it, take the Autostrada exit at Barberino di Mugello, turn right just before the village, park at the end of the road, and a short walk brings you to the crystal-clear waters of the lake.
The Mugello
This region north and east of Florence gained a stunning new feature: a potential 5 km² water sports paradise nestled among rolling green hills, medieval villages, and occasional Medici castles, not far from the renowned Scarperia racing circuit built in 1974. Despite numerous attempts by entrepreneurs, only one has managed to secure a beach operation permit. Nevertheless, the lake has become a beloved walking destination for Barberino locals.
Bilancino: An Accidental Nature Reserve
Lake Bilancino has evolved into more of a nature sanctuary than a water sports hub – though not by design. While perfect for various water activities, these possibilities remain largely unexplored. The sole beach establishment, Bahia Café, is worth discovering, especially on weekends when it comes alive with music and excellent food. Here you can rent canoes, boats, or windsurfing equipment, and there's a sailing club across the lake.
Nature enthusiasts will find plenty to love here. The lake offers unrestricted access from all sides, with charming coves and free public beaches scattered around its shores. The clean water is perfect for swimming – both humans and dogs enjoy cooling off here after a hot day. Fish thrive in these waters, and early risers might spot anglers rowing to their favorite fishing spots.
Butterflies, flamingos, and wild boars
On the dam's north side, accessible via the Galliano road, lies the Oasi del Gabbianello. This protected area is home to flamingo colonies, vibrant butterflies, and winter visits from wild boars. While closed in July and August, the rest of the year visitors can explore the lake's surroundings on rental mountain bikes.
The facts of Bilancino
Lago di Bilancino, the largest artificial lake in Tuscany, spans five square kilometers and has a capacity of 69 million cubic meters. Originally designed as a water reservoir, it now serves multiple purposes, including flood prevention, hydroelectric energy production, and tourism. The lake plays a crucial role in ensuring the water supply for over a million people across Florence, Prato, Pistoia, and parts of Chianti.
The idea of creating a water reservoir for Florence dates back to the mid-19th century, but it wasn't until 1953 that a technical committee was tasked with identifying potential sites. By 1958, Bilancino was selected as the location for the dam, and the catastrophic Florence flood of 1966 accelerated the need for a large-scale water management project. The dam was finally inaugurated in 1996, and the lake was opened to the public in 1999, reaching full capacity by 2001. The total cost of the project amounted to approximately €300 million.
Beyond its primary function as a water reservoir, Lago di Bilancino plays a significant role in flood control. Since 2017, regulated water releases have helped mitigate extreme weather events affecting the Sieve and Arno rivers. Additionally, the lake supports renewable energy production through a hydroelectric plant built in 2006, which generates 8.15 million kWh annually, preventing 6,000 tons of CO₂ emissions each year.
The lake has also become a popular destination for tourism and recreation. It offers four designated swimming areas, including a fully equipped beach, and is a hotspot for water sports such as sailing, canoeing, and windsurfing. Since 2004, it has been home to the WWF Gabbianello Oasis, which enhances its ecological significance. Despite initial opposition and challenges, Lago di Bilancino has transformed into an essential resource for both the environment and the local economy, benefiting Barberino di Mugello and the surrounding region.
