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October and November in Italy are months of unrestrained festivity. And when there isn’t already a reason to celebrate, one is quickly invented. This autumn, South Tyrol became my playground: a season spent wandering from apple to chestnut festivals and savoring the *Mercato del Pane e dello Strudel* in the lovely town of Bressanone. The pleasure of it all was only heightened by the kind of weather one hopes for but rarely gets.
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South Tyrol, or Alto Adige, is a region where the apple truly rules. Orchards stretch endlessly, their rows of trees lined up with geometric precision, each fruit groomed to meet the strict standards of the local cooperativa. Size, color, uniformity - nothing is left to chance. And contrary to what one might assume, this is not the handiwork of European bureaucracy, but a self-imposed discipline by farmers determined to keep the loyalty of supermarket chains across Europe and beyond.
Chestnut Walks in the Eisack Valley
As the forests shift to gold and crimson, South Tyrol’s trails fill with hikers drawn out by the season’s quiet splendor. Walking is a pastime cherished by locals as much as by visitors. On weekends, families of all ages set off with sturdy boots and backpacks along the well-known chestnut routes. These gentle rambles often end at a traditional Bauernhof, where guests settle in for Törggelen - a generous meal served at long wooden tables, either in the cozy *gelag* room or outdoors in the sun if the weather allows. And for those arriving unprepared, yes, the dominant language here is German; it’s simply how daily life sounds in this northern corner of Italy.
Bread and Strudel Market in Brixen
Brixen, or Bressanone, is a small town rich in history and culture. Beyond its extensive list of attractions - 81 museums, castles, and abbeys, should one wish to count them - it also hosts a wonderfully spirited Bread and Strudel Market in Piazza Duomo, the sunlit square before the cathedral. About twenty bakeries and grain mills set up their stalls, offering visitors a chance to follow the path from threshing to baking, ideally with a glass of local wine in hand. By eleven o’clock, the market is already in full swing. It’s Sunday, after all; there is no urgency here. Children eagerly tie on aprons and tiny chef’s hats as they knead dough for their own loaves. Throughout the day, local musical groups take turns performing, each welcomed by its own circle of admirers. Names like Die Stoanheber, Völser Volksmusikanten, and Schuhplattler Lajen draw warm applause as the crowd joins in the familiar folk tunes.
