There are still quite a few tourists on the Amalfi coast from Sorrento to Salerno in the fall, but certainly not the crowds of July and August. This is the time when the exclusive international audience mingles with the locals of the famous coastline by the Tyrrhenian Sea, as they explore new exclusive hot spots and hotels. From September to November, it's not too hot, but still warm enough. There are many slow food festivals and open vineyards, making it the perfect time of year to enjoy a walk along the coast.
The Amalfi Coast has been enchanting visitors to this region in Campania for centuries. Apart from Capri, Positano and Ravello are by far my favorite spots on the Tyrrhenian Sea. The coast is crowded with tourists in the summer, but come September, tranquility returns. You can fully enjoy the sparkling cobalt blue sea and endless vistas over cliffs covered with Mediterranean shrubs, bougainvillea, and lemon trees. Citrus fruits are a recurring theme on the coast; limoncello, stalls with giant lemons, lemon granitas, and the somewhat kitschy tablecloths and aprons printed with lemons are all part of the experience.
Opening of the Archaeological Park of Ipogeo dei Cristallini in Naples
A fantastic reason to fly to Naples is the newly opened archaeological site (July 2022), featuring unique frescoes and architecture from the Hellenistic period, between the death of Alexander the Great in 323 BC and the rise of the Roman Empire. Consider staying at the Hotel Royal Continental with views of the Castel dell'Ovo in the harbor.
Hotel Royal Continental, Via Partenope, 38, 80121 Napoli NA, Italy - Make a reservationIpogeo dei Cristallini - Via dei Cristallini, 133 80137 Naples - Tel. +39 344 0725752 Website: https://www.ipogeodeicristallini.orgBorgo Santandrea, Amalfi
The private beach of the new hotel on the Borgo Santandrea coast is unique among Amalfi Coast hotels. Additionally, the truly stunning surroundings are entirely enchanting. The beach features a 90m elevator that takes you to the hotel lobby, where you can choose between having a cocktail poolside or on the terraces. You should really dine at La Tonnarella, the favorite dining spot of Jackie Kennedy on the enchanting Conca dei Marini beach.
Borgo Santandrea, Via Giovanni Augustariccio, 33, 84011 Amalfi SA, Italy - Make a reservation
It's no coincidence that the word "borgo" is in the hotel's name because Borgo Santandrea is truly a world unto itself. The hotel has two bars, the quiet Plumbago Bar, probably boasting one of the most beautiful terraces in the world overlooking the Costiera, and the Beach Bar right above the beach, carved out of the rocks. It's best to reserve in advance for both; it would be a shame if you couldn't get a table after making the long journey there.Plumbago Bar - Via Giovanni Augustariccio, 33, 84011 Amalfi SA - Tel. +39 089 831148 - Website: https://borgosantandrea.it/dining/la-terrazza-bar/
Franco's Bar in Positano
Franco is really Don Francesco Saverio dei Marchesi Sersale, to give him his full name. He was one of four siblings who co-founded the Le Sirenuse hotel in 1951, formerly their family home. Franco, a talented photographer, was happiest when traveling the world.
Hovering over the sea, it's the place to be for a sunset drink in Positano. A stylish outdoor bar. Positano's newest cocktail bar is a (re)discovery for me, but it's not just any seaside bar. This elegant bar, suspended over the sea in the colors of the Amalfi Coast, is a unique collaboration between talented artists and craftsmen, gathered here to honor the man whose impeccable taste defined the distinct style of the beautiful Le Sirenuse hotel.
Le Siranuse, Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30, 84017 Positano SA, Italië - Make a reservation
The result is a contemporary al fresco bar with a curated drink menu, a place for love, friends, a post-swim aperitif, or quiet contemplation of beauty. No reservations. First come, first served! Try the Martini di Positano, a shaken mix of gin and olive oil, served in unmistakable blue-striped tumblers by the renowned glassmaker Nason Moretti. During the winter, the bar relocates to the Kulm Country Club in Sankt Moritz in Switzerland.
Franco's Bar - Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30, 84017 Positano SA - Tel. +39 089 812189 - Website: https://francosbar.com/enJacky Bar in Capri
For an exceptional bar experience in Capri, you should visit the Jacky Bar. Founded in the early 1960s by Jackie Onassis, it's still today one of Capri's most stylish places to be. In this charming place, you can sip a Bellini while enjoying a magnificent view of the Faraglioni rocks. Do reserve in advance, especially during the summer season when it can get very crowded.
Jacky Bar - Via Tragara, 57, 80073 Capri NA - Tel. +39 081 8376527Il Riccio Beach Bar in Anacapri
People from the fashion world are often spotted at Il Riccio, a beach club near the Il Riccio restaurant, part of the luxury Capri Palace hotel. During the summer, they organize events and parties, like the recent SPA pop-up by Dior. Even when there's no event, the place is worth a visit. Relax on one of the beach loungers, but be aware that the swimming area might be a bit tricky to access due to the rocks. Naturally, you'd want to dine at the Riccio restaurant, enjoying a breathtaking view of the water and Capri's Blue Grotto.
Capri Palace Jumeirah, Via Capodimonte, 14, 80071 Isola di Capri, NA, Italy - Make a reservation
Under a thatched roof with white cabanas and amidst stone steps descending to the sea, you can sit at azure blue tables. The highlight is fresh seafood served on a lavish platter filled with various fish and shellfish. The Sea Lounge is open daily from 11:30 am to 6:00 pm and from Thursday to Sunday, from 11:30 am to 10:30 pm. The Riccio restaurant is open for lunch from 12:30 pm to 3:30 pm and for dinner from Thursday to Sunday, 7:30 pm to 10:30 pm.
Il Riccio at the Capri Palace Jumeirah - Via Capodimonte, 14 80071 Anacapri (NA) - Tel. (+39) 081 9780111 Email:Da Gioia by La Palma
In Capri, the former 'artists' hotel', the first hotel ever opened on the island, has been newly reopened since August 2022 under the name La Palma by the Oetker hotel chain. A project designed by interior designer Francis Sultana and a kitchen led by Gennaro Esposito, a renowned Italian chef and TV personality from Vico Equense near Sorrento. The bar was not what I expected; it seems a last-minute switch was made to pastel colors instead of the green and cobalt blue combination we saw in last year's interior drawings. Da Gioia by La Palma is their exclusive beach club, where you can rent a sunbed with a view of the iconic Faraglioni and have the beach right in front of you for a dip in Capri's mesmerizing turquoise waters. In the evening, enjoy music from the house DJ while sipping a cocktail or drink at the bar. We haven't had the chance to try it yet since the hotel just opened in August 2022.
Hotel la Palma Capri - Via Vittorio Emanuele, 39, 80073 Capri NA - Make a reservation